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Selecting the right dog breed is not easy even if it is your second one. The basic considerations are their characteristics, what do you want a dog for, whether they meet your requirements and the price etc. A quick study of the dog groups should help you begin your quest, as group names are indicative. For example, you need a dog for herding cattle; you can immediately focus on breeds within this group. American Kennels club (AKC) has listed 18 dogs under this group, which you can choose from the lot. On the other hand, you can search by how they are bred. Mixed dog breeds, purebred dogs (examples: Cockapoo, bull terrier, bulldog etc) suit multiple purposes. AKC provides a good set of guidelines to select the right dog breed for your need.
If you choose to pursue dog breeding, realize that it is a big time and money investment. Also realize that just because your dog is registered doesn’t necessarily mean that it would make a good breeding dog. Almost any dog with purebred parents can be registered. Having a registered dog does not mean that your dog should or can be bred.
If you do decide to breed your dog, you must be clear on what your motivation and goal is. Your motivation and goal should be to breed dogs that are as close to the breed standard as possible.
If you have a female dog, or bitch, the question of breeding her is bound to arise. The decision is an important one. The experience of seeing the bitch give birth and helping her raise the litter is a meaningful one, but a great deal of time on your part is necessary during the course of events.
If you're a beginning breeder, don't expect to make a fortune with the first litter. There are many expenses involved. Talk to established breeders to determine what outlay is necessary before you make the decision to breed your dog.
A bitch can only get pregnant during her seasons of heat, which usually occur twice a year, six months apart and last approximately 21 days. Small breeds may experience three heat seasons annually, the large breeds, only one. The times and intervals vary from dog to dog. a bitch's first heat comes between six and 12 months of age; if a large breed, sometimes later.
Unless a bitch is spayed, meaning her reproductive organs are removed, she must be kept from male dogs during her periods of heat if you do not wish her to conceive. Male dogs are quite ingenious and can pick up the scent of a female in heat for miles, so either kennel your dog or keep her indoors if you do not wish her to mate. The scent is in the bitch's urine. Don't be surprised if several anxious romeos parade around your yard during this period of time. Don't let her out of your sight for a minute!
When a bitch is ready to breed she will accept the male dog. This is the only time she will show an interest in her sex life. Matings two days apart while the bitch is willing to accept the stud are recommended. The stud owner may suggest that you leave your dog with him for a few days to assure a successful mating. It is wise to contact the stud owner well in advance to discuss general terms and again when the bitch comes into heat so that a definite reservation can be made.
You'll know your dog is pregnant when you can feel the puppies-this is around the fourth or fifth week. Until that time the bitch has few special needs, although she should continue to receive a nutritional, well-balanced diet and vitamin supplement.
Whelping box.The dimensions of the whelping box depend on the size of dog. For the smaller breeds, a cardboard box is sufficient-have a couple on hand, as a wet or soiled box must be discarded. For the larger breeds, you need a BIG box. The box should be log enough to accommodate her when she is stretched at full length, with extra space for the puppies.
The sides should be high enough to prevent drafts and to keep the puppies inside. Cut an opening in one side for the mother to use, with an entrance barrier to prevent the pups from leaving.
Line the bottom of the box with several thicknesses of newspaper to absorb moisture, changing these when needed to maintain cleanliness. If your dog has a favorite blanket or toy, put this in the box. You may want to put an old shirt or jacket of yours there, also to encourage her to use the box. she needs an old rug or blanket during whelping.
Whelping may take as little as half an hour or as long as 14 hours. If your dog does not whelp within two hours of the onset of labor, call the veterinarian. There may be an obstruction or breech birth. If so, she will need his help. Otherwise, the bitch is able to take charge of things herself. Each puppy is born in a sac, and should be followed by the after-birth-the placenta attached to the umbilical cord. If the placenta is not discharged after the puppy, or with the next one, call the veterinarian. There should be a placenta for each puppy. The bitch may eat a couple.
The mother normally tears open the sac with her teeth and cleans the puppy. If she doesn't, you must do it for her-and quickly. Tear the sac around the head area so the puppy can breathe and pull it down off the body. If the bitch does not ct the umbilical cord with her teeth, cut it with a pair of scissors, using a sawing motion to prevent bleeding. Hold the placenta over the puppy as you do this. Leave a two-inch length from the puppy. Dip the stub in a bowl of iodine. Have silk thread available to tie the cord if it bleeds. Then give the bitch her puppy to clean. The bitch should lick the puppy vigorously to stimulate breathing. If she doesn't, rub the puppy with a rough, dry towel, removing mucus from its mouth with your finger.
The bitch pants heavily between births and consumes a great deal of water. Check her frequently and quietly. There is no need to stay with her all the time. Do not allow too many spectators. This may make her nervous. The interval between puppies may vary between 10 minutes and an hour. Leave the pups with her; nursing stimulates the uterus to expel the other puppies.
Keep a bowl of warm, sudsy water on hand to bathe her hindquarters and to wash your hands, if you assist. Do not attempt to help her unless she does not perform the necessary functions herself, or unless the puppies are in danger. After she is through whelping, take the bitch outside to relieve herself. The puppies should nurse soon afterwards and then settle sown to sleep. Then the bitch is ready to eat. Encourage her with a little milk and follow wit a regular meal.
See to lit that all the puppies nurse, rotating them with their mother, if necessary. If she doesn't have enough milk to feed them, try a commercial milk substitute. As an emergency formula, mix a can of evaporated milk with one-fourth can of water and an egg yolk. Warm to about 100 degrees; feed with an eye-dropper or doll's baby bottle.
Puppies' eyes are closed when born and open between 10 days and two weeks. They should not be exposed to bright lights for several days after their eyes open.
Weaning. The mother may begin weaning the puppies herself between the fourth and fifth weeks. You may help by offering the puppies a mixture of warm milk or water and baby cereal or dot food, in a gruel consistency, beginning about the third week. Add powder to the mixture. Gradually decrease the amount of liquid. It helps to keep the pups from their mother an hour before offering the new food. Moisten their mouths with the food to encourage them to eat it.
The puppies should be completely weaned before they are taken from their mother. This can be accomplished by the sixth week. Remember that the puppies receive immunity to disease from their mother's milk and should be given their puppy shots shortly after weaning to provide continuing immunity.
After weaning, the puppies should be wormed. Two treatments are usually necessary. The puppies can be wormed at six weeks with anti worm oral-powder. Use anti flea and tick powder if the puppies have fleas or lice.
To dry up the mother's milk, gradually reduce the amount of food given her from the time weaning of the puppies begins. On the day the puppies are completely weaned, do not feed the mother. The next day offer her a small portion of food, increasing the amount daily, until her consumption equals what it was before pregnancy. On the day the puppies are cut off completely from their mother, you may rub camphorated oil on her nipples to hasten the drying up process.
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